Well i put these off for years. I did 6 triathlons, a 450 mile bike tour, a mountain biking trip, and approximately 10,000 miles of pedaling without investing in these.
They aren't cheap.
New shoes start at about $70.
I wanted Tri specific ones that were right for me so I wound up spending $119 on a pair of LG's.
That is about $20 more than a pair of running shoes. It will long outlast a running shoe. I am hoping to get 5 or more years out of them. Only about a third of my miles are on my racing bike.
I go through 3 pairs of running shoes per year at nearly $100 apiece. So in 5 years I spend $1500 on running shoes (plus a pair or 2 of racing flats). Comparatively the biking shoes are a good deal.
I have used them twice now. I am getting used to clipping in and out. I think they are making me faster.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
triathlons aren't cheap
I am fortunate to have had gainful employment and that my wife currently makes enough to support our family comfortably.
Unfortunately there are a lot of great thriathletes out there that will not be able to compete at a high level due to cost constraints.
You can do them and enjoy hte fitness and social benefits and go for PR's with very little money but if you want to be competitive on a higher level you need a better bike, separate shoes to bike in and some other junk.
The minimum to enter
•Swim suit $0 (you have something now)
•goggles ($0-$10 if you don't have any you can get them for under 10)
•bike $0 (again you have access to a bike)
•shoes $0-$50 (either you have a pair of running shoes or you can get some Cheap)
•helmet 0 or $10-$25 if you don't already have one
•optional shirt, shorts and socks $0 (you have these)
•$35 entry fee to a non USAT sprint tri.
So start up cost is $35 <---this is how I did my first 4 Tri's only entry fee was needed - I had the rest.
to improve or be an age group competitor you'll want
•a close fitting swim suit that you feel comfortable wearing on the bike and run $10-$50
•decent goggles $10-$15
•an entry level road bike (not a Huffy type department stoare road bike) $200-$400
•helmet $10-$50
•good running shoes $60-$120
•optional technical shirt 0 or$10-$20 or number belt $5-$10
•race entry fees $35-$50 +$10 for USAT license srint or olympic distance
So intermediate cost is about $500
- I had some stuff and got a good deal on a bike so it ran me about $250 to go to this level- obviously your cost per race goes down as you reuse the same equipment. My second one cost $35.
If you really want to compete at an amateur level you'll want
•a close fitting swim suit that you feel comfortable wearing on the bike and run $10-$50 or a tri suit $200& up (I don't use this)
•nice goggles $10-$20
•a nice road bike or entry level tri bike $500-$1500
•helmet $30-$100 (mine is actually still a junky $10 cap)
•good running shoes $60-$120 AND biking shoes $80-$150
•number belt $5-$10
•race entry fees $35-$50 +$10 for USAT license srint or olympic distance more for longer distances
so at this level it costs about $1350
-it cost me $1130 to make this jump
at an elite level a better bike and tri speed suit and top end equip are called for THIS COULD COST OVER $10,000 FOR EVERYTHING. the funny thing is I saw guys who spent this kind of money coming in way after me in tris when I was at the $250 level. At $1380 I am able to compete with any non professional athlete.
Remember to spend the amount that is appropriate for your level and Consider the amount you will use the stuff.
Unfortunately there are a lot of great thriathletes out there that will not be able to compete at a high level due to cost constraints.
You can do them and enjoy hte fitness and social benefits and go for PR's with very little money but if you want to be competitive on a higher level you need a better bike, separate shoes to bike in and some other junk.
The minimum to enter
•Swim suit $0 (you have something now)
•goggles ($0-$10 if you don't have any you can get them for under 10)
•bike $0 (again you have access to a bike)
•shoes $0-$50 (either you have a pair of running shoes or you can get some Cheap)
•helmet 0 or $10-$25 if you don't already have one
•optional shirt, shorts and socks $0 (you have these)
•$35 entry fee to a non USAT sprint tri.
So start up cost is $35 <---this is how I did my first 4 Tri's only entry fee was needed - I had the rest.
to improve or be an age group competitor you'll want
•a close fitting swim suit that you feel comfortable wearing on the bike and run $10-$50
•decent goggles $10-$15
•an entry level road bike (not a Huffy type department stoare road bike) $200-$400
•helmet $10-$50
•good running shoes $60-$120
•optional technical shirt 0 or$10-$20 or number belt $5-$10
•race entry fees $35-$50 +$10 for USAT license srint or olympic distance
So intermediate cost is about $500
- I had some stuff and got a good deal on a bike so it ran me about $250 to go to this level- obviously your cost per race goes down as you reuse the same equipment. My second one cost $35.
If you really want to compete at an amateur level you'll want
•a close fitting swim suit that you feel comfortable wearing on the bike and run $10-$50 or a tri suit $200& up (I don't use this)
•nice goggles $10-$20
•a nice road bike or entry level tri bike $500-$1500
•helmet $30-$100 (mine is actually still a junky $10 cap)
•good running shoes $60-$120 AND biking shoes $80-$150
•number belt $5-$10
•race entry fees $35-$50 +$10 for USAT license srint or olympic distance more for longer distances
so at this level it costs about $1350
-it cost me $1130 to make this jump
at an elite level a better bike and tri speed suit and top end equip are called for THIS COULD COST OVER $10,000 FOR EVERYTHING. the funny thing is I saw guys who spent this kind of money coming in way after me in tris when I was at the $250 level. At $1380 I am able to compete with any non professional athlete.
Remember to spend the amount that is appropriate for your level and Consider the amount you will use the stuff.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Gloves for cold weather.
Just coming off the cold I was thinking about gloves as I put away my Ski gloves. I wear ski gloves while riding in sub 30º weather.
For running I wear the kind of gloves you buy at the hardware store for gardening or cold weather building. They are about $2 a pair. The ones with the little dimples on one side are sweet for biking in 35 - 45º weather. Dollar stores often have gloves too. Or you could stop at the sporting goods store and drop $25 on a pair of running gloves.
Maybe a little gross but if you run in cold weather you can appreciate this- The cheap gloves are easier to wipe the snot with. If it is under 20º you don't want to take off your pretty gloves and fumble for your tissue (where are you keeping it anyway?)
For Races that are between 30-40º I wear an old pair of cheap gloves or socks on my hands. I know I will not want them the whole race so I just toss them once I am warm.
A friend of mine makes the shells that go over gloves to provide extra warmth, wind and water protection. buy a remnant piece of gortex or use a worn out gortex item. Cut a thumbless mitten, sew it together inside out. put it over your gardening gloves. Pin it at the wrist so you can remove and not lose them if you get too warm. This kind of all weather layered glove can cost $50. You can have some for $3.
For running I wear the kind of gloves you buy at the hardware store for gardening or cold weather building. They are about $2 a pair. The ones with the little dimples on one side are sweet for biking in 35 - 45º weather. Dollar stores often have gloves too. Or you could stop at the sporting goods store and drop $25 on a pair of running gloves.
Maybe a little gross but if you run in cold weather you can appreciate this- The cheap gloves are easier to wipe the snot with. If it is under 20º you don't want to take off your pretty gloves and fumble for your tissue (where are you keeping it anyway?)
For Races that are between 30-40º I wear an old pair of cheap gloves or socks on my hands. I know I will not want them the whole race so I just toss them once I am warm.
A friend of mine makes the shells that go over gloves to provide extra warmth, wind and water protection. buy a remnant piece of gortex or use a worn out gortex item. Cut a thumbless mitten, sew it together inside out. put it over your gardening gloves. Pin it at the wrist so you can remove and not lose them if you get too warm. This kind of all weather layered glove can cost $50. You can have some for $3.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Cost to race.
Most races are pretty standard for your area. I have noticed a corelation: the bigger the city, the higher the cost. though it is the population density that is a bigger factor. So check out those rural races. They are unfortunately harder to find. They are not on some big race organizers website and they may not even have a website of their own.
Here in Columbus Ohio we have 750,000 people ranking 15th in the country. A 5k costs $27 from one of he race promoters. The Columbus Marathon costs $75.
City difference - NY marathon $171, Athens Ohio Marathon $35
It costs more to shut down a bigger city.
You can shop around for races in your area. I have done 5k races for as little as $3 as a guest for a rural roadrunners club and $5 (a non promoted charity run) and $33 (promoted, late entry, plus CC service charge). I try to keep a 5k to $20 unless it is something really cool. It was a mistake payin $33. I top out at $27 now.
A great deal here in Columbus is the Dash for Donation Half Marathon. $35 which is good but if you are a registered organ donor it is only $15. Run on Columbus Downtown bike path. Another great deal is the Columbus Running Co's Mile Dash Bash. $7 include a free beer, cake and drawings for prizes. it draws a great field of runners and some wacky costumes too.
Ask at local running stores. Check in with libraries, rec centers and big churches. Ask around. Google it. Don't be a slave to overpriced races. Expect what you pay for. If they aren't giving your money's worth -pass.
One of the worst priced races in our area is the Columbus Distance Classic a John Penguin Bigham race. It costs $60/$70. The race is not very special. There are several other halfs you can run for $35. The 5k is $30/$35 and draws very few competitive runners. I suppose if you run a 20 minute 5k and want to win a race it is appealing.
Make sure you know when entry fees go up. You usually need to register a month before your event.
For triathlons I am finding that $40 is pretty standard for sprints. I am going to be doing some longer races this year and I'll post on fees then. Don't forget that is it says it is a USAT sactioned event you need to add $10 to the fee. If you are doing 4 or more USAT races buy a membership.
Here in Columbus Ohio we have 750,000 people ranking 15th in the country. A 5k costs $27 from one of he race promoters. The Columbus Marathon costs $75.
City difference - NY marathon $171, Athens Ohio Marathon $35
It costs more to shut down a bigger city.
You can shop around for races in your area. I have done 5k races for as little as $3 as a guest for a rural roadrunners club and $5 (a non promoted charity run) and $33 (promoted, late entry, plus CC service charge). I try to keep a 5k to $20 unless it is something really cool. It was a mistake payin $33. I top out at $27 now.
A great deal here in Columbus is the Dash for Donation Half Marathon. $35 which is good but if you are a registered organ donor it is only $15. Run on Columbus Downtown bike path. Another great deal is the Columbus Running Co's Mile Dash Bash. $7 include a free beer, cake and drawings for prizes. it draws a great field of runners and some wacky costumes too.
Ask at local running stores. Check in with libraries, rec centers and big churches. Ask around. Google it. Don't be a slave to overpriced races. Expect what you pay for. If they aren't giving your money's worth -pass.
One of the worst priced races in our area is the Columbus Distance Classic a John Penguin Bigham race. It costs $60/$70. The race is not very special. There are several other halfs you can run for $35. The 5k is $30/$35 and draws very few competitive runners. I suppose if you run a 20 minute 5k and want to win a race it is appealing.
Make sure you know when entry fees go up. You usually need to register a month before your event.
For triathlons I am finding that $40 is pretty standard for sprints. I am going to be doing some longer races this year and I'll post on fees then. Don't forget that is it says it is a USAT sactioned event you need to add $10 to the fee. If you are doing 4 or more USAT races buy a membership.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Nutrition
Supplements, protein shakes. diets, energy bars, gels and all that jazz - UNNECESSARY
Start your day with a Bowl of cereal with fat free milk. I eat Total Raisin Bran.
Have 8oz of Fortified OJ. Other cereal and real fruit juice substitutions are fine.
I can't get by without 16 oz of coffee. Half of that is good for you.
Drink water.
Keep healthy snacks in plain view. If you have to open the snack drawer you are likely to grab a Ho Ho instead of an Apple. I keep Multi Grain Fig Newtons, Quaker peanut butter granola bars, fresh fruit, and dried fruit on hand. Later in the day snacks include Peanuts, Cheese and Wheat Thins. If you can do unsalted nuts or seeds of any kind -eat up!
Drink Water
For lunch I have 6-8 oz of low sodium V8 and fruit juice (I vary it up - pomegranate/blueberry, cranberry/raspberry. grapefruit juice, and others). I eat a sandwich or pizza or whatever - just don't stuff yourself. Don't have high fat, high sugar or high salt foods
Drink Water
Healthy snack
Drink Water
Eat a variety of foods for dinner. Make sure to get veggies, fruit, good carbs, and protein for dinner. I eat lean meat - usually chicken. I always buy 85 - 92% lean beef. I make sure I have fresh fish at least once a week.
my after dinner/before bed routine is very unhealthy but because my body is getting the nutrients and excercise it needs - I process this junk quicly. I have a couple of beers, a couple servings of doritos and often something sweet as well. I don't recommend this last section of my diet but I am a weak man - I need my junk food.
Pre-exercise I will drink gatorade (I use the kind I mix myself). Post exercise I have a homemade recipe -
1/4 cup chocolate carnation instant breakfast, a banana, 1/4 cup oats, 1/4 cup peanut butter, 1/4 cup ice cream, 12 ozskim milk - blended. MMMMMMMM
(a cup of chocolate milk will do. - If your still hungry grab a healthy snack)
My race day diet is a little different. Covered in a later post.
A note on calories - CALORIES ARE GOOD! A calorie is a unit of energy. You need energy. Don't avoid calories. Just eat the right foods and excercise.
There is a lot of talk about carbs being bad. -UNTRUE! You must get carbs - just avoid simple carbs (usually white eg - white bread, white rice, enriched pasta) get whole grain non enriched carbs. If you are working out you need alot of carbs.
Also Your body NEEDS fat, sugar, and salt - you just don't need to go out of your way to get them - your food has plenty in it already.
A little caffeine and Alcohol and NSAIDS are fine. The problem people have is overdoing it.
Cigarettes, illegal drugs, fad diets, sarvation, and steroids will destroy everything you worked for. If you are using these now - SEEK HELP from people who love you and professionals.
Use perscriptions as directed by your doctor.
Start your day with a Bowl of cereal with fat free milk. I eat Total Raisin Bran.
Have 8oz of Fortified OJ. Other cereal and real fruit juice substitutions are fine.
I can't get by without 16 oz of coffee. Half of that is good for you.
Drink water.
Keep healthy snacks in plain view. If you have to open the snack drawer you are likely to grab a Ho Ho instead of an Apple. I keep Multi Grain Fig Newtons, Quaker peanut butter granola bars, fresh fruit, and dried fruit on hand. Later in the day snacks include Peanuts, Cheese and Wheat Thins. If you can do unsalted nuts or seeds of any kind -eat up!
Drink Water
For lunch I have 6-8 oz of low sodium V8 and fruit juice (I vary it up - pomegranate/blueberry, cranberry/raspberry. grapefruit juice, and others). I eat a sandwich or pizza or whatever - just don't stuff yourself. Don't have high fat, high sugar or high salt foods
Drink Water
Healthy snack
Drink Water
Eat a variety of foods for dinner. Make sure to get veggies, fruit, good carbs, and protein for dinner. I eat lean meat - usually chicken. I always buy 85 - 92% lean beef. I make sure I have fresh fish at least once a week.
my after dinner/before bed routine is very unhealthy but because my body is getting the nutrients and excercise it needs - I process this junk quicly. I have a couple of beers, a couple servings of doritos and often something sweet as well. I don't recommend this last section of my diet but I am a weak man - I need my junk food.
Pre-exercise I will drink gatorade (I use the kind I mix myself). Post exercise I have a homemade recipe -
1/4 cup chocolate carnation instant breakfast, a banana, 1/4 cup oats, 1/4 cup peanut butter, 1/4 cup ice cream, 12 ozskim milk - blended. MMMMMMMM
(a cup of chocolate milk will do. - If your still hungry grab a healthy snack)
My race day diet is a little different. Covered in a later post.
A note on calories - CALORIES ARE GOOD! A calorie is a unit of energy. You need energy. Don't avoid calories. Just eat the right foods and excercise.
There is a lot of talk about carbs being bad. -UNTRUE! You must get carbs - just avoid simple carbs (usually white eg - white bread, white rice, enriched pasta) get whole grain non enriched carbs. If you are working out you need alot of carbs.
Also Your body NEEDS fat, sugar, and salt - you just don't need to go out of your way to get them - your food has plenty in it already.
A little caffeine and Alcohol and NSAIDS are fine. The problem people have is overdoing it.
Cigarettes, illegal drugs, fad diets, sarvation, and steroids will destroy everything you worked for. If you are using these now - SEEK HELP from people who love you and professionals.
Use perscriptions as directed by your doctor.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
How much $ needed to get strated in triathlons?
If you own running shoes, a swim suit and a bike - nothing.
If you are thinking about doing a tri, you should start with what you have. If you like it then you can spend some money on upgrades.
What is a running shoe? It is a shoe made specifically for running - not a pair of cool looking athletic shoes. It should be a pair that offers the support and cushion uniquely required for you. It should not have more than 400 miles of combined running and walking miles on it. If you run in worn out shoes or the wrong kind of shoes or shoes that don't meet your needs - you will get injured. Medical bills cost more than shoes. Buy some. Ideally you should go to a running specialty store to get the right shoe for you. It will cost more (~$95)than at a department or sporting goods store (~60). But you will save your self injuries and set backs in training. You will be a stronger , faster runner. You can get your next pair at a discount store. Just buy the same shoes. trust me the extra $30+ is a good return on your money.
Can you ride your 1995 Murray mountain bike? Yes! But if that is all you have, try to borrow a bike for a few training rides and the race. A friend of my wife's tried to ride a full suspension Huffy on a 30 mile tour. The bike had to weigh 50 pounds. It was brand new but every component was garbage. She would have done as well to run. She was unable to finish the ride. My wife used a 5 year old Giant Boulder (pre suspension) weighing 35lbs with high quality components. I had also swapped the over sized knobby mtn tires for road tires bought at Target for $10 each. It was an easy ride for her. My friend Vicky used this same bike for her first Triathlon last year. She couldn't believe how much nicer it was than the department store mountain bike she was trining on. A bike like that used $50. An entry level bike that can be used for multiple purposes (niot just Tris) is the Schwinn Super Sport at about $400.
If you want a road bike Target sells mass consumer level Schwinns. I used a Schwinn Prelude ($178) last year and loved it. A friend of mine borrowed it for a Tri as well. They are available at Target and Amazon for a little over $200 now. It was a little big for me and I am getting serious so I ....well, I'll get to that in a later post.
Put simply train on what you have. Borrow a bike if need be for the event.
You probably will wear the same shoes on the bike and run (until you upgrade to clipless pedals)
Oh, and if you don't have toe clips head to Target and get some >$10 - it is a HUGE difference.
What kind of swim suit do I need? What evere you have. woman's one oiece or men's trunks.
I bought a triathlon specific swimsuit srom Club Swim for $10 - they are like biking shorts but they don't come down as far and have less padding. The are swim suit material. I train in really big baggie swim trunks - please fellas - leave the speedo at home when you go to the city pool.
If you are thinking about doing a tri, you should start with what you have. If you like it then you can spend some money on upgrades.
What is a running shoe? It is a shoe made specifically for running - not a pair of cool looking athletic shoes. It should be a pair that offers the support and cushion uniquely required for you. It should not have more than 400 miles of combined running and walking miles on it. If you run in worn out shoes or the wrong kind of shoes or shoes that don't meet your needs - you will get injured. Medical bills cost more than shoes. Buy some. Ideally you should go to a running specialty store to get the right shoe for you. It will cost more (~$95)than at a department or sporting goods store (~60). But you will save your self injuries and set backs in training. You will be a stronger , faster runner. You can get your next pair at a discount store. Just buy the same shoes. trust me the extra $30+ is a good return on your money.
Can you ride your 1995 Murray mountain bike? Yes! But if that is all you have, try to borrow a bike for a few training rides and the race. A friend of my wife's tried to ride a full suspension Huffy on a 30 mile tour. The bike had to weigh 50 pounds. It was brand new but every component was garbage. She would have done as well to run. She was unable to finish the ride. My wife used a 5 year old Giant Boulder (pre suspension) weighing 35lbs with high quality components. I had also swapped the over sized knobby mtn tires for road tires bought at Target for $10 each. It was an easy ride for her. My friend Vicky used this same bike for her first Triathlon last year. She couldn't believe how much nicer it was than the department store mountain bike she was trining on. A bike like that used $50. An entry level bike that can be used for multiple purposes (niot just Tris) is the Schwinn Super Sport at about $400.
If you want a road bike Target sells mass consumer level Schwinns. I used a Schwinn Prelude ($178) last year and loved it. A friend of mine borrowed it for a Tri as well. They are available at Target and Amazon for a little over $200 now. It was a little big for me and I am getting serious so I ....well, I'll get to that in a later post.
Put simply train on what you have. Borrow a bike if need be for the event.
You probably will wear the same shoes on the bike and run (until you upgrade to clipless pedals)
Oh, and if you don't have toe clips head to Target and get some >$10 - it is a HUGE difference.
What kind of swim suit do I need? What evere you have. woman's one oiece or men's trunks.
I bought a triathlon specific swimsuit srom Club Swim for $10 - they are like biking shorts but they don't come down as far and have less padding. The are swim suit material. I train in really big baggie swim trunks - please fellas - leave the speedo at home when you go to the city pool.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Helmets
Why buy a helmet? It is $10 to $200 you can save. You look cooler without it and it is cumbersome.
A: Medical bills cost a lot more than a Helmet. Brain Damaged is often irreversible. Death is bad. If you don't wear one your kids won't either. Do you want them riding without one?
Do you need a $200 helmet? No. Unless you are a professional bike rider.
How about a $100 helmet? No. Unless you ride a lot, do races or tours and have money to waste (but if you are just wasting money send it here)
A $50 Helmet? This is pretty normal. You can get a cool (as far as helmets go) looking, comfortable (in fit and cooling) one, aerodynamic one for this. These Usually have built in reflectors.
A $10 helmet? Yep. Mine is 10 bucks. Same safety rating as a $200 one. It didn't have cool colors or designs so I painted a Bat emblem on the front and put a reflective Flash sticker on the back. This price range doesn't give you a very adjustable helmet so be sure it fits well as is.
So save money by buying an inexpensive helmet. Don't skip it altogether.
A: Medical bills cost a lot more than a Helmet. Brain Damaged is often irreversible. Death is bad. If you don't wear one your kids won't either. Do you want them riding without one?
Do you need a $200 helmet? No. Unless you are a professional bike rider.
How about a $100 helmet? No. Unless you ride a lot, do races or tours and have money to waste (but if you are just wasting money send it here)
A $50 Helmet? This is pretty normal. You can get a cool (as far as helmets go) looking, comfortable (in fit and cooling) one, aerodynamic one for this. These Usually have built in reflectors.
A $10 helmet? Yep. Mine is 10 bucks. Same safety rating as a $200 one. It didn't have cool colors or designs so I painted a Bat emblem on the front and put a reflective Flash sticker on the back. This price range doesn't give you a very adjustable helmet so be sure it fits well as is.
So save money by buying an inexpensive helmet. Don't skip it altogether.
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Old Triathlon Results
This isn't really about being cheap but I wanted to share:
I found my results from the 80's! Not in any publication - they were in a file folder here at home.
I did these when I was younger than I thought.
1st at age 16 in 1984 - 2nd at age 16 in 1984 - 3rd at age 17 in 1985.
they were longer than sprints and shorter than olympic distance.
I had been swimming competitively since age 12. I would get out of the water in the first few people.
I rode my considerably taller brother's steel Schwinn Varsity with basket clips. I got past by a lot of people.
The first year I was sucking wind in the run. I had only started running that year. The second one in the first year I got massive cramps on the run - it was HOT and I was under hydrated.
the distances and times are :
Canton Bud Light Jun 9, 1984 2:06:00 <---This was the best I would do until I was 40 years old.
(splits are approximate)
1000m (.6 mile) ows 16:00 includes T1 ~1:15/100yds
33k (20.5mile) bike 1:05:00 includes T2 ~19.5mph
10k (6.2 mile) run 45:00 ~7:15/mile
Shenango Triathlon Aug 18, 1984 2:06:07
1000m (.6 mile) ows 15:56 (includes T1) ~1:15/100yds
25k (15.5mile) bike 1:00:05 ~ 14.3 mph Really SLOWWW
10k (6.2 mile) run 50:06 (includes T2) dehydrated /cramps ~7:53/mile even Slowererer
Canton Bud Light Jun 8, 1985 2:18:13
1000m (.6 mile) ows 13:25 ~1:22/100yds
34k (21.1mile) bike 1:25:30 (bike include both transitions) ~15.75 mph SLOWWWWW
10k (6.2 mile) run 40:18 ~6:29/mile
My bike time was MUCH slower than the previous year - it includes both transitions and an extra .6 miles. I also probably pushed too hard on the swim.
My transitions for these involved wrapping a towel around me, taking off my swim suit, drying, putting on my biking shorts, putting on a shirt, rinsing and drying my feet, putting on socks and shoes I tied, putting on sunglasses and just puttsing too long. I would guess I spent 4 minutes in T1 and a full minute in T2 even though I didn't change shoes.
My next Tri was somewhere around 1999. I met a guy who said he was doing Wendy's at Alum Creek. I figured - Why Not (even though it had been 10 years since I had done any training.)
I haven't found the results for it but they are fairly irrelevant.
I did the Sprint.
I got kicked in the face HARD on the swim. I still got out toward the beginning of the pack.
I used my old 4 minute routine at T1
I jumped on a nice newish Raleigh road bike (nice for a guy 4 inches taller than me.) I it bought from a friend. I got a flat tire with about 5 or 6 miles to go. -No repair kit, CO2 -nothin.
I ran pushing the bike to T2. I was past by some kids, seniors, Huffy's and Murrays. My wife encouraged me to see how many people I could pass on the 5k. I didn't worry about getting out of T2 fast. i took a good drink and set out to pass 50 peopl.
It was actually very easy to pass 50 people because by the time I started the run even the casual tri enthusiasts had past me on the bike.
When I got home and went to eat some fresh baked peanut butter cookies I was reminded of the kick to the face.I do have to say that a nicer bike would cost more but certainly would help.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Bikes
I have ridden bikes for daily transportation since 1987. A bike should not cost thousands of dollars.
I did some triathlons in the late 80's on my brother Schwinn world road bike. It was too large for me and weighed well over 30 lbs. I still was competitive.
In 2008 I decided to try the tris again.
I searched for a reasonably priced road bike. Bike shops and name brand bike start at $400. However I found Schwinn sold to Pacific cycle a mass producer from China. They still produced worthy bikes in all categories for $500 and up sold at bike shop BUT they also produce mass consumer models sold at Target, Wal Mart and Amazon. These bikes come with lower grade compoments at a fraction of the cost. You also lose the benefits from a local bike store with service. I found the Schwinn Prelude MSRP $235 was retailing at $199 at Target and Amazon. I went to Target to try it out for sizee at get a close look at it since very little info is available on line. Thes consumer bikes are not even listed on the Schwinn website. The bike fot, it looked well made with decent components and it was on sale for $178. I took it home. PS It has a lifetime warrantee on parts.
On this bike I finished 13th in my first Tri (overall) 1st in Age grou and 2nd overall in the next tri. I find that the biggest factor for the bike is the weight and VO2 max of the rider. The weight of the bike and components is second.
That said you can waste your money by buying a CHEAP bike. Department store brands (other than the schwinn often look like their expensive counterparts but are just REALLY heavy poorly constructed bikes. Gettin a full suspension Murray Mountain Bike is absolutely pointless. You will not be able to use it for it's intended purpose.
My other bikes that I got new:
- a 2001 Schwinn Mesa GS MTN bike with rear suspension, luggage rack, trunk, lights, computer $200 (marked down ffro $449)
- a 1994 Giant Boulder (no suspension) $200 that I pull a 2008 Instep double stroller $149
- a 1978 Ross cruiser - christmas gift
I laso have a Used Schwinn Tandem ~ 1958 given to me I spend $100 making it nice.
I am in my first year of serious triathlons so I am buying a new Tri bike - more to come on it soon.
I did some triathlons in the late 80's on my brother Schwinn world road bike. It was too large for me and weighed well over 30 lbs. I still was competitive.
In 2008 I decided to try the tris again.
I searched for a reasonably priced road bike. Bike shops and name brand bike start at $400. However I found Schwinn sold to Pacific cycle a mass producer from China. They still produced worthy bikes in all categories for $500 and up sold at bike shop BUT they also produce mass consumer models sold at Target, Wal Mart and Amazon. These bikes come with lower grade compoments at a fraction of the cost. You also lose the benefits from a local bike store with service. I found the Schwinn Prelude MSRP $235 was retailing at $199 at Target and Amazon. I went to Target to try it out for sizee at get a close look at it since very little info is available on line. Thes consumer bikes are not even listed on the Schwinn website. The bike fot, it looked well made with decent components and it was on sale for $178. I took it home. PS It has a lifetime warrantee on parts.
On this bike I finished 13th in my first Tri (overall) 1st in Age grou and 2nd overall in the next tri. I find that the biggest factor for the bike is the weight and VO2 max of the rider. The weight of the bike and components is second.
That said you can waste your money by buying a CHEAP bike. Department store brands (other than the schwinn often look like their expensive counterparts but are just REALLY heavy poorly constructed bikes. Gettin a full suspension Murray Mountain Bike is absolutely pointless. You will not be able to use it for it's intended purpose.
My other bikes that I got new:
- a 2001 Schwinn Mesa GS MTN bike with rear suspension, luggage rack, trunk, lights, computer $200 (marked down ffro $449)
- a 1994 Giant Boulder (no suspension) $200 that I pull a 2008 Instep double stroller $149
- a 1978 Ross cruiser - christmas gift
I laso have a Used Schwinn Tandem ~ 1958 given to me I spend $100 making it nice.
I am in my first year of serious triathlons so I am buying a new Tri bike - more to come on it soon.
Friday, March 13, 2009
A place to swim
I was a competitive swimmer in high school. I know that doing laps will help my overall fitness.
The problem: where do you swim once you are out of school?
The summer time is easy. The city pool is open and has designated lanes for laps and rest periods for kids. The state park lakes are warm.
My city pool is half a mile from my house and fluctuates free/25cents/50cents and free year to year. Alum Creek state park is 15 miles away and FREE.
Spring, fall and winter are harder - the outdoor city pool is closed. The lake is cold and/or closed.
The city (of Columbus) has an indoor pool with limited hours for 50 cents. Suburb pools and private pools that offer kid lessons often let parents swim laps during kids lessons. Guest passes and trial memberships at gyms are great. <--I have used these options.
A health club membership can be a good investment IF the club has a pool. No pool = no reason to join. The Y is a good place to look for inexpensive membership.
Join a Masters Swim Club. You gain access to the pool AND get workouts and friends.
For me an additional problem is finding someone to watch my kids while I swim laps. that's a story for another day.
The problem: where do you swim once you are out of school?
The summer time is easy. The city pool is open and has designated lanes for laps and rest periods for kids. The state park lakes are warm.
My city pool is half a mile from my house and fluctuates free/25cents/50cents and free year to year. Alum Creek state park is 15 miles away and FREE.
Spring, fall and winter are harder - the outdoor city pool is closed. The lake is cold and/or closed.
The city (of Columbus) has an indoor pool with limited hours for 50 cents. Suburb pools and private pools that offer kid lessons often let parents swim laps during kids lessons. Guest passes and trial memberships at gyms are great. <--I have used these options.
A health club membership can be a good investment IF the club has a pool. No pool = no reason to join. The Y is a good place to look for inexpensive membership.
Join a Masters Swim Club. You gain access to the pool AND get workouts and friends.
For me an additional problem is finding someone to watch my kids while I swim laps. that's a story for another day.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Save some gas.
Well I am trying to get the ball rolling on this blog.
One of the biggest ways I save money and time is by using running as transportation.
When I started running this meant running a mile to get lunch at McDonald's or to ship a box at the post office. I would run to the movies or the bar or a friend's house - if it was withing 2 miles and I didn't have to carry a ton I ran.
Travel reimbursement was at 31 cents a mile and i think it comes to more than that when you consider repairs and a new car payment -so by using running for transport I saved a couple hundred dollars the first year. I also saved a ton of time because I would have been getting to the car, driveing and parking the car anyway. If parking costs or is far - the savings increase.
These days I bike (often pulling a double trailer) and run (pushing a double jogger) everywhere I can. I Use biking and running as transportation over 1000 miles per year. That is worth about $500 to me. If i worked out separately I would cost me and additional 100 hours per year.
One of the biggest ways I save money and time is by using running as transportation.
When I started running this meant running a mile to get lunch at McDonald's or to ship a box at the post office. I would run to the movies or the bar or a friend's house - if it was withing 2 miles and I didn't have to carry a ton I ran.
Travel reimbursement was at 31 cents a mile and i think it comes to more than that when you consider repairs and a new car payment -so by using running for transport I saved a couple hundred dollars the first year. I also saved a ton of time because I would have been getting to the car, driveing and parking the car anyway. If parking costs or is far - the savings increase.
These days I bike (often pulling a double trailer) and run (pushing a double jogger) everywhere I can. I Use biking and running as transportation over 1000 miles per year. That is worth about $500 to me. If i worked out separately I would cost me and additional 100 hours per year.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
first post
So here I am. I have been a competitive runner since 2005 . I was a high school runner and swimmer. I continued dabbled in triathlons, water polo, softball, basketball and weight training after high school. Each year I would do less. At age 36 I was 30 pounds overweight. It hurt to run. It was time to start running regularly again.
Needed to get started: Shoes.
A friend had given me a pair that weren't right for him.
This is cheap - it isn't the best thing.
I bought shoes from department stores. This saves money too but it is not smart money. If your shoes do not give you the proper alignment, cushion, and support you need then injuries are on the way. I was lucky- I got away with only shin splints.
Spending the extra money to get the right shoes from a professional running store will cost more up front but will save you money in the long run - you won't need another pair right away like when shoes you got from kmart weren't right, you will get more bang for your race entry fee, you won't hurt as much, you may save money at the doctor, chiropractor, and massage therapist.
Front Runner, Road Runner sports and Second Sole here in Columbus offer a good selection and the service needed to get the right shoe. Ask about discontinued shoes. Ask about other discounts for running clubs or teams.
You can save money on your SECOND pair of shoes by getting the same or similar shoe at a department store, closeout or online.
Here in Columbus you can get the SECOND pair at Sports Authority or Kohl's. You can save up to $50 a pair.
You need to get a pair from a real running store at least every 3 years.
Typical high quality running shoe from a running store: $80-$110
Life of a running shoe varies greatly on type of runner, type of running, type of shoe and more. A shoe should last at least 100 miles. I would not recommend ever exceeding 400 miles in a pair.
I wear mine about 300 miles (less for flats).
It is best to buy the next pair of shoes halfway through the life of the first. I rotate shoes until the first is at 300 and the second is at 150. Then the first become daily walking shoes. A new pair is rotated in. once that walking shoes get ugly they becoming the lawn mowing shoes. And the cycle continues.
I go through 4 pairs of running shoes a year.
Needed to get started: Shoes.
A friend had given me a pair that weren't right for him.
This is cheap - it isn't the best thing.
I bought shoes from department stores. This saves money too but it is not smart money. If your shoes do not give you the proper alignment, cushion, and support you need then injuries are on the way. I was lucky- I got away with only shin splints.
Spending the extra money to get the right shoes from a professional running store will cost more up front but will save you money in the long run - you won't need another pair right away like when shoes you got from kmart weren't right, you will get more bang for your race entry fee, you won't hurt as much, you may save money at the doctor, chiropractor, and massage therapist.
Front Runner, Road Runner sports and Second Sole here in Columbus offer a good selection and the service needed to get the right shoe. Ask about discontinued shoes. Ask about other discounts for running clubs or teams.
You can save money on your SECOND pair of shoes by getting the same or similar shoe at a department store, closeout or online.
Here in Columbus you can get the SECOND pair at Sports Authority or Kohl's. You can save up to $50 a pair.
You need to get a pair from a real running store at least every 3 years.
Typical high quality running shoe from a running store: $80-$110
Life of a running shoe varies greatly on type of runner, type of running, type of shoe and more. A shoe should last at least 100 miles. I would not recommend ever exceeding 400 miles in a pair.
I wear mine about 300 miles (less for flats).
It is best to buy the next pair of shoes halfway through the life of the first. I rotate shoes until the first is at 300 and the second is at 150. Then the first become daily walking shoes. A new pair is rotated in. once that walking shoes get ugly they becoming the lawn mowing shoes. And the cycle continues.
I go through 4 pairs of running shoes a year.
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